Ronnie Rig For Carp Fishing

The Ronnie Rig: A Michigan Carp Angler’s Complete Guide

The Ronnie rig is a low-lying pop-up presentation that uses a spinner swivel system to give your hookbait 360-degree rotation. It hooks carp aggressively regardless of the angle they approach from, resets itself after missed takes, and rarely tangles. For Michigan waters where sessions are often short and you need confidence in your presentation, this rig delivers.

Quick Start

You need five things to fish a basic Ronnie:

  1. Size 4 or 6 curved shank hook with an in-turned eye
  2. Quick-change spinner swivel (attaches to hook eye)
  3. Shrink tubing or kicker sleeve (covers the swivel connection)
  4. Micro ring swivel and hook bead (for bait attachment)
  5. Stiff fluorocarbon or coated braid hooklink (6-10 inches)

Attach a 12-15mm pop-up using bait floss. Add tungsten putty near the hook to counter the bait’s buoyancy. That’s the rig. It works on lead clips, helicopter setups, and inline leads.

Why the Ronnie Works

The spinner swivel lets the hook rotate freely on its axis. When a carp sucks in the bait, the hook spins and catches in the bottom lip or scissors almost every time. The stiff boom section kicks the hookbait away from your lead on every cast, and if a fish mouths it and spits it out, the rig resets to fish effectively again.

The presentation sits just off the lakebed—low enough to avoid suspicion, high enough to clear light debris. On Michigan’s pressured public waters, that subtlety matters.

Best Hooks for the Ronnie Rig

Use a curved shank pattern with an in-turned eye. The curve creates an aggressive hooking angle. The in-turned eye positions the spinner swivel correctly.

Proven patterns include:

  • Gardner Mugga (size 4 or Continental Mugga size 6) – the hook most associated with this rig
  • Korda Kurv Shank or Krank – widely available, sharp out of the packet
  • ESP Curve Shanx – solid budget option
  • RidgeMonkey RM-Tec Curve Shank – very sharp, good for snaggy swims

Size recommendation: Size 4 is standard. Size 6 works for smaller pop-ups or pressured fish. In my experience, going smaller than size 6 reduces the rig’s effectiveness—the mechanics depend on adequate gape.

Best Hooklink Materials

Match your hooklink to the lakebed:

For clean gravel or hard bottoms:

  • Stiff fluorocarbon (20-25lb) like Korda Boom or Gardner Invisi-Link
  • Crimp both ends for a clean finish
  • 6-8 inch boom length

For silt, light weed, or unknown bottoms:

  • Coated braid with a stiff outer (strip the last inch for suppleness)
  • Or soft fluorocarbon like Korda IQ
  • Extend to 8-10 inches so the rig settles naturally over debris

Fluorocarbon crimps better than it knots. If you’re knotting, use coated braid instead—it handles knots without weakening.

Knots and Crimps

Crimping is the go-to for fluorocarbon booms:

  • Use double-barrel crimps sized to your hooklink diameter
  • Thread through one barrel, around your swivel or loop, back through the second barrel
  • Squeeze firmly with a proper crimp tool (not pliers)

If knotting coated braid:

  • Figure-of-eight loop knot creates extra movement at the swivel
  • Grinner knot (3-4 turns) works with stiffer materials
  • Palomar knot is reliable for supple braids

Always steam your hooklink straight with a kettle before fishing. This removes coil memory and ensures the rig lays out properly.

Best Baits for the Ronnie Rig

Pop-ups are the natural choice. The rig was designed for them. A 12-15mm pop-up in a bright color (pink, white, yellow) gives excellent visibility and proper buoyancy.

Wafters work too. A critically balanced wafter sits the hook flat on the deck with the bait just kissing the bottom. Good for pressured fish that shy away from obvious pop-ups.

Bottom baits are possible but require a hair tied to the micro ring swivel rather than bait floss. Most anglers use other rigs for bottom baits—the Ronnie’s strength is in its pop-up mechanics.

Balance your bait properly. Add tungsten putty near the shrink tubing until your pop-up sinks slowly. The hook should sit point-up like a claw when the rig is in the water.

Step-by-Step: Tying the Ronnie Rig

Step 1: Cut 12-15mm of shrink tubing. Slide it over your hook shank from the eye end.

Step 2: Attach a quick-change spinner swivel through the hook eye. The swivel opening should face the back of the hook (away from the point).

Step 3: Slide the shrink tubing down over the hook eye and the barrel of the swivel. Leave enough tubing extending down the shank to create an aggressive angle.

Step 4: Steam the shrink tubing with a kettle until it grips tightly. Don’t cover the rotating ring of the swivel—this needs to spin freely.

Step 5: Thread a micro ring swivel over the hook point, followed by a hook bead. Position the bead opposite where the barb sits (or would sit on a barbless hook).

Step 6: Cut 8-10 inches of hooklink material. Thread through a crimp, then through the spinner swivel ring, then back through the crimp’s second barrel. Squeeze closed.

Step 7: At the other end, crimp a loop or a size 8 ring swivel for attachment to your lead system.

Step 8: Add an anti-tangle sleeve over the swivel end if using a quick-change clip system.

Step 9: Floss a pop-up onto the micro ring swivel. Add tungsten putty to balance.

Michigan Scenario: Short Session at a Pressured Lake

You’ve got four hours at a public lake in southern Michigan. The carp here have seen everything. Water temp is 58°F—fish are feeding but cautious.

The approach: Tie two Ronnie rigs before you leave home. Size 4 Mugga hooks, 8-inch fluorocarbon booms, 14mm pink pop-ups. Pre-balance them with putty so they’re ready to fish.

At the lake, find a margin spot with clean gravel or firm silt. Cast tight to features—overhanging trees, reed edges, patrol routes. The Ronnie lands tangle-free and presents immediately. No need to recast and check.

When a carp picks up your bait, the rig’s 360-degree rotation means it hooks solidly even if the fish approaches from behind. Solid hookhold in the bottom lip. Job done.

If you get a take from a bream or tench and the hook blunts, slide off the kicker sleeve, swap the hook in 30 seconds, steam the new shrink tubing, and you’re fishing again. No need to retie the whole rig.

Do This / Avoid This

Do This:

  • Use shrink tubing or a kicker that grips firmly—soft tubing causes hook pulls
  • Position the hook bead opposite the barb for maximum aggression
  • Steam fluorocarbon hooklinks straight before every session
  • Use a larger hook (size 4) with smaller baits for better hooking
  • Check hook points regularly—the Ronnie relies on sharpness

Avoid This:

  • Covering the swivel barrel with shrink tubing (kills the rotation)
  • Using pop-ups with weak buoyancy (the rig won’t sit correctly)
  • Going smaller than size 6 hooks (mechanics stop working)
  • Forgetting putty when your pop-up floats the whole rig up
  • Fishing soft tubing—it allows the hook angle to change during the fight

Common Mistakes

Mistake 1: Wrong shrink tubing stiffness. If your tubing is too flexible, the hook can pull at bad angles during the fight. Use stiff shrink tubing or dedicated kicker sleeves.

Mistake 2: Hook bead in the wrong position. It should sit opposite the barb, not up near the eye. Wrong placement reduces the aggressive hooking angle.

Mistake 3: Unbalanced hookbait. Too much buoyancy lifts the whole rig off bottom. Too little and the hook doesn’t sit point-up. Test your rigs in the margins before casting.

Mistake 4: Not steaming the hooklink. Fluorocarbon has memory. If you don’t steam it straight, your boom will coil and tangle. Every time.

Mistake 5: Neglecting the swivel connection. The spinner swivel must rotate freely. If debris or gunk locks it up, you lose the rig’s main advantage.

Michigan Notes

Water temperatures: The Ronnie works year-round, but it shines when carp are actively feeding (55°F+). In colder water, consider scaling down to a size 6 hook and 10-12mm pop-up.

Pressured lakes: Michigan’s accessible carp waters see a lot of anglers. The Ronnie’s low-lying presentation is less obvious than a chod rig sitting high in the water. On heavily fished spots, try natural-colored pop-ups (brown, washed-out pink) rather than high-vis.

Margin fishing: Many Michigan lakes have productive margins with firm bottoms. The Ronnie is ideal here—cast tight to features, let it settle, and the stiff boom keeps everything presented correctly even in shallow water.

Short sessions: Pre-tie your rigs at home. The Ronnie’s quick-change hook system means you can swap blunted hooks bankside without re-doing the boom. Bring three or four spare hook sections in a rig wallet.

Bottom composition: Southern Michigan lakes often have a mix of gravel, sand, and silt. Use fluorocarbon booms over hard spots, coated braid over softer areas. When in doubt, go with coated braid—it forgives more mistakes.

FAQ

Can I use the Ronnie over weed?

Yes, but adjust your approach. Use a helicopter setup so the lead can discharge if needed. Extend your boom length to 10+ inches so the rig clears low-lying weed. The pop-up will sit above light debris naturally.

Why do some anglers crimp instead of knot?

Fluorocarbon is stiff. Knots in stiff material often sit untidily and can weaken at the connection. Crimping creates a smooth, strong joint that doesn’t affect presentation. If you’re using coated braid, knotting is fine.

How do I know if my pop-up has enough buoyancy?

Drop your finished rig in the margin. The hook should sit point-up on the bottom with the pop-up hovering just above. If the hook lies flat or the whole rig floats, adjust your putty. Test before every cast.

Is the Ronnie fish-safe?

Yes, when tied correctly. The concerns about the old 360 rig causing mouth damage don’t apply here—the spinner swivel is positioned differently and the shrink tubing prevents hook eyes from catching in landing nets. Cover the hook eye completely with your tubing to be safe.

What’s the difference between a Ronnie and a spinner rig?

Same rig, different names. “Spinner rig” describes the mechanics (the hook spins on the swivel). “Ronnie rig” is the popular name after the angler associated with its development. Use either term.

Next Steps

Ready to put the Ronnie into action? Check out these related guides:

  • [Best Pop-Up Boilies for Michigan Carp] – Choosing hookbaits that balance correctly
  • [Lead Systems Explained] – Match your Ronnie to the right clip or helicopter setup
  • [Michigan Carp Fishing: Seasonal Tactics] – When and where the Ronnie works best through the year

Fish hard, handle them carefully, and put them back swimming strong.